Reuse as Knowledge-Cross cultural design transfer in decorative inlay in lacquer vanity cases

Lacquer was introduced to Europe in the sixteenth and seventeen centuries and became fashionable during the Art Deco period (1920s-1930s). Lacquerware is largely associated with luxurious designs including jewellery, toiletries, and the interiors of ocean liners. The combination of lacquer and mother-of-pearl grew hugely popular. This talk examines a main feature in Art Deco vanity cases-the reuse of original Chinese lacquer inlaid with tinted mother of pearl mosaic or marquetry. In order to preserve the ancient technique and the integrity of precious designs, high jewellery houses collected original mother-of-pearl lacquer from major antique dealers. Panels were extracted from existing bowls, tables, or trays and then refabricated with embellishment of enamel, jade, coral, lapis lazuli, onyx, cabochon gemstones, and diamonds in Art Deco ensembles. This discussion will also explore cross cultural aspects of design transfer in lacquer panels that were made in Paris based on Asian models. Many western inlays were the creation of European craftsmen including Vladmir Makowsky, a Russian émigré artist working in Paris. He specialized in creating Chinese lacquer and gemstone design using traditional Chinese iconography and perspectives to emulate authentic effect of Chinese design. His tablets are set within a geometric border of enamel in Art Deco pastiche, combining traditional Asian manufacturing methods with Art Deco designs and vibrant colour schemes.