Refraction and diffraction of random waves through breakwater

Y. X. Yu, S. X. Liu, Yok Sheung Li, Wing Hong Onyx Wai

Research output: Journal article publicationJournal articleAcademic researchpeer-review

30 Citations (Scopus)


A physical model study of combined refraction and diffraction of waves through a breakwater gap at different incident angles was conducted. Both regular and random waves with narrow and broad frequency and direction spreading were studied. Besides the presence of a mild bottom slope in the lee of the breakwater, the distribution of wave heights across the width of a navigation channel inside the model harbor was also simulated. In addition to contributing to an understanding of the phenomenon of refraction and diffraction of random waves, the relatively complete set of data obtained can serve as a benchmark for testing of numerical models.
Original languageEnglish
Pages (from-to)489-509
Number of pages21
JournalOcean Engineering
Issue number5
Publication statusPublished - 1 May 2000


  • Breakwater gap
  • Physical model
  • Random waves

ASJC Scopus subject areas

  • Environmental Engineering
  • Ocean Engineering

Cite this