Effects of waist and lower limb movements on clothing ease design

为了完成动态样板的设计,基于10名男性人体在静、动态下的1600个尺寸,采用因子分析和方差分析方法,研究了腰部及下肢运动对人体尺寸的影响,以及尺寸变化对服装松量设计的影响。数据及分析结果表明,9种尺寸是描述人体下肢及躯干下部的关键部位尺寸,也是下装样板设计中最为重要的基本尺寸。除了腰围和脚踝围外,9种腰部及下肢运动对其他7种关键尺寸的变化都有明显的影响,尤其是对臀围和后腿中心线长度的影响最为明显。最后,根据这些尺寸变化和分析结果,讨论了下装纸样中部位松量设计以及面料弹性性能的设计。||Based on(1 600) measurements of 10 subjects measured in natural standing state and shoulder joint movements,two statistical methods,including factor analysis and one-way ANOVA,were used in this study to explore principal body measurements and analyze effects of different waist and lower limb movements on each principal body measurement for clothing ease design,which were helpful to dynamic pattern design.The findings showed that changes of all body measurements in waist and lower limb movements were different and 9 measurements were principal body measurements,which were used in bottom pattern making.Except waist and ankle girth,effects of waist and lower limb movements on each principal body measurement were significant,especially on hip girth and back central length of leg. Finally,clothing ease design and fabric elasticity design were discussed according to the changing results of principal body measurements in different movements. 还原